A report on österlen.se
With passion rare juicy buns, spicy bread and delicious organic and vegetarian food, Matti and Iwona Holgersson have created a long-awaited meeting place.
It is morning in Sankt Olof on Österlen in Skåne. A raw cold merciless wind winds over fields and meadows. But inside the Byvägen 35 you are met by the heat from the wood stove and smells of cabbage, coffee and cardamom. The bell at the door rings when well-dressed customers come to buy freshly baked Christmas bread, rye bread, baguettes and poppy-coated rolls.
Some tribesmen have breakfast and drink hot cappuccino. Behind the bread counter, Matti Holgersson roasts brown cabbage to the vegetarian Christmas table and his wife Iwona Holgersson takes up a bread order for the Christmas weekend by an elderly lady.
Matti grew up here in Attusa, not far from Sankt Olof, trained as a qualified chef and moved to Copenhagen. There he worked for 15 years, until Iwona came into his life. She lived in Svedala with her two sons.
- Together, we started looking for somewhere to live where we could combine home and business. In the end, we decided on Matti's home and found this; a house with an old fine carpentry workshop, Iwona says.
Iwona and Matti saw the potential right away. Here they could realize their dreams of having their own bakery and café.
- Just a few days after we moved in, a neighbor came and told us that once upon a time there was a bakery in the basement of the apartment building. There is an old photo from the beginning of the 1900 century with the baker and shy shop assistants, says Matti.
- Yes, it really felt like a sign that we were on the right track, says Iwona.
The carpenters they were thinking of hiring said it was equally good to tear everything down. But Iwona, who grew up in Poland, disagreed. She contacted a carpenter friend who saw a lot of work, but also great opportunities.
- In Poland, we are used to repairing and preserving old things. I remember what it was like to live with small means, how we had to queue to be able to buy bread and food, says Iwona.
Matti and Iwona did most of the work themselves with the help of family, friends and neighbors. It took much longer than they had imagined and the challenges became many.
- I'm a cook, not a carpenter, so it was a bit heavy, but we knew exactly how we wanted it. The whole is so important and everything is interconnected, the food and the environment, says Matti and pours the cabbage into a large clay pot. His own vegan version of the Scanian classic is seasoned with chili and roasted sesame.
From the beginning, it was intended that Matti would take care of the bakery and the cafe and that Iwona could continue to work in health care and care as she previously did. Carefully they opened the doors Easter 2013. They were expecting a steady stream of customers, but oh what it was, the rumor about the noise was going lightning fast across the countryside.
- You have to taste the saffron spins. We decided early on that we would not bake those where buns that have a dry outer wall one must first go through to get to the good. Our buns are juicy all the way, says Matti.
Now it is quieter on Bygatan than during the summer as there can be long queues all the way down the street, but many of the guests have traveled far to eat Matti's and Iwona's vegetarian Christmas table with good conscience and the tribesmen from the village and surrounding area are many.
On a wooden table are large bowls of white beans with butler sauce - sounds odd but is very good - kale pie, Holgersson's temptation, hummus spiced with orange oil, red cabbage salad, mushroom pâté and large dark mushroom buns in cream sauce decorated with glittering red lingonberries.
Matti has been a vegetarian since he was a kid and for him and Iwona it was obvious to open a vegetarian place. They try to find the best possible raw materials and as much organic and locally produced as they can.
- We were lucky because it really lies in time. More and more people are discovering how good it can be without meat and fish. Some, usually dads, whine a little when ordering. But it is incredibly fun when they come and say they can think of being a vegetarian, says Matti.
The regulars and villagers Kenth take care of the buffet for the second time and say that everything has changed since Matti and Iwona came to the village. More people have moved here and the houses have gone up in value.
- The best part is that we talk to each other more. Conversations usually occur between the tables, Kenth says.
The old workshop has been transformed into a long-awaited meeting place, just as Iwona and Matti hoped it would be. They try to keep prices down so that everyone can afford to come here, even single parents and large families. On Saturdays Matti sharpens his gourmet muscles and then it becomes Italian and on Sundays they bake pizzas. In the garden they grow herbs and maybe there will be more vegetables in the future.
- The raw materials mean everything, they can inspire the dishes. Taste and texture are extremely important to us, says Matti.
- On Mondays we set the menu of the week. Then we are "free", open a bottle of bubble and find out what to cook. It's incredibly fun.
- The last stop is Mom. She finally approves the menu, Matti flips in.
Matti's family is very committed and happy to support. His brother Måns, who actually works as a designer and photographer in Malmö, has been Bygatan's barista since they opened.
Every morning, Iwona gets up at three and puts on the ovens. Matti gets up at 4am to start baking. He respects the bakery craft, but as a chef he is not bound by traditions. He goes his own way, does his way, which many times pleasantly surprises the guests.
Iwona is his great source of inspiration and she has brought Polish traditions to the menu. On the Christmas table stands a smoking hot soup made from, among other things, sour rye and potatoes. A soup that can heat any frozen winter stomach.
On an old plate layer stands the dessert, a bright yellow smooth saffron pudding with a thin layer of crisp, lightly crystallized sugar on the surface, solid and smooth it melts against the tongue. The puddings have been baked on the after heat in the bread oven overnight. One guest takes two sneakily. Darkness falls over the small village of Österlen and in the houses around Advent lights and Christmas trees are lit.
Matti Holgersson, 44 year and Iwona Holgersson, 43 year, Sons Patryk 24 year, Alan 15 year and Leo 6 year. 1 small dog, 2 rabbits and 6 chickens.
On Byvägen 35's facebook page you will find more info on menus, opening hours and more.
Village road mushroom paté
A good dish that fits on the Christmas table.
- XNUMBLE cashew nuts
- 1 kg of mushrooms
- 2 dl red lentils
- 2 dl beluga lenses
- 1 dl oatmeal
- 3 finely chopped shallots (chopped)
- 2 pressed garlic cloves
- 0,5 dl maize flour
- 1 tablespoon gluten-free miso paste
- 2 tablespoon Japanese gluten-free soy sauce
- 3 tablespoon chopped leaf parsley
Salt, pepper and thyme
For serving: preferably raw berries, lactic acid cucumber, grated fried oyster slice and fresh herbs.
- Soak the cashews the day before.
- Tear the mushrooms and bake in the oven at 200 degrees for about 20 min. Let the baked mushrooms drain in a strainer. Save the mushroom broth for sauce or soup.
- Rinse and boil the lentils separately in lightly salted water.
- Allow the cashew nuts to drain and mix to stir.
- Mix all ingredients and taste with salt, pepper and thyme. Fill the batter in a pate mold or cast iron skillet in cast iron and bake in the oven for about 1 hour at 175 degrees until it feels firm.
Village road sourdough cinnamon buns or other good buns
- Cut the buns into thin slices, about 0,5 cm.
- Distribute the slices on a baking sheet paper and dry in the oven at about 80 degrees.
Boil water, sugar and glucose for a few minutes.
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 cups water
- 1 tablespoon glucose
- 1 tablespoon grappa
- 2 g saffron
Use a sugar thermometer and cook to 103 degrees. Let cool slightly and stir down grappa and saffron. Store the syrup cool in an airtight bottle or jar. The syrup is used for Byvägen saffron pudding but also for the whole Christmas baking where you want saffron flavor.